A Day Full of Surprises
Today began with a lesson with Arvanitis. We continued to work on the fourth mode called "Legetos." I learned more about rhythm and integrating the textual accents into the rhythm, as well as certain ornaments and other oral traditions about how to perform certain melodic cadences and phrases. On my way back from the lesson, Panagiotis called me and wondered if I was free for lunch. I met Panagiotis providentially in a bookstore a couple weeks ago. He has made arrangements for Adrian and I to visit Mount Athos next week. I stopped by a bookstore an looked at a couple of coffee table books about Naxos, which I will probably buy tomorrow, because I had to run to meet Panagiotis. "Do you like calamari?" he asked. What kind of question is that? "I know a taverna in Pireaus that makes the best grilled calamari." I got on his moped (I said I wouldn't do it again...oh well) and we were on our way. Today was even more scary than the city center, because we took the highway to Piraeus. "Did you see any cops?" he asked. "No," I answered. "Exactly. In America, they're everywhere. Here, they don't do anything. People drive however they want." I couldn't describe the traffic better if I tried. We arrived unscathed at the taverna. The place was packed. You can't tell that the country has hard times by looking at a taverna...they are always full. Soon, the first course arrived. It was a kind of spread for the bread. It was not exactly hummus, but similar, topped with onions, capers, and olive oil.